(Japan)
I had fully intended to write from Japan, but, a combination of internet issues, very full days, and disinclination to type on my small phone screen, means I am now home.
Travel, they say, broadens the mind. I am not (unlike lovely Chris), widely travelled, and it was indeed an education to see and meet people in another society, in another corner of the world.
While culturally, Japan is “different”, I think it was apparent more unites us as people, than divides us as nations. When a stranger and I both swaps sides (twice) while approaching along a narrow path, it requires no common language to share the amusement at our mutual (failed) attempts at consideration. On the bus (completely rammed) the drivers announcement (“please move right inside…”) is clear in all tongues, and greeted equally by regulars and tourists a like. On the busy streets and concourses of Tokyo, unintended contant is unavoidable, “Sumimasen” is the polite Japanese, but “Sorry” is ingrained as an automatic reflex, and by the time I attempt to correct my error, the human tide will have swept the recipient away – no matter – the sentiment is clear to both parties.
English was spoken (at least a little) by many, and signage frequently in two (of even three) languages. Still I am pleased that my small effort to learn at least some “polite words” was not lost, and shop staff, waiters and concierges, were frequently and visibly delighted by my fumbled attempts (thank you, please, that was delicious, pleased to meet you…).
There were of course some unexpected communications. When buying at a shop, one can anticipate, “do you need a bag”. I quickly learned that tea or coffee will always be, “hot or iced?” , however nothing could possibly allowed me to anticipate that buying a Panda cake (Kind of bun) is met with ” how much ice would you like with that?”.
Intelectually, I had been told that Tokyo is the biggest city in the world, but I was not fully prepared to experience it. A trip to see the ship Mikasa (old battleship) in Yokohama harbour (part of Tokyo), leaving from our – roughly central- hotel, was akin to travelling from Glasgow to Edinburgh to see the royal yacht in Leith, then looking out across the bay to see the lights of still more Tokyo!
Interestingly Tokyo has (almost) no publc bins of any kind. Indeed it is trope, that after a day in Tokyo, you return with a bag of wrappers and cups – which is exactly what people do.
Litter, as we woud understand it is completely absent, even from the meanest lane. I saw no grafitti, and, although green space is at a premium, any vacant spot of earth where two roads meet, will be thoughfully planted – tended – and possibly include a thousand year old stone with an inscription too ancient to be read.
I had read, and had been told, that the Japanese are stand-offish with, and do not care for, foreigners. Ten days spent in three places is scarcely an exhaustive study, but I found them polite to a fault, accomodating, willing to go the extra mile to cope with a bumbling tourist. We were met with hospitality and kindness at every turn.
They have (perhaps) yet to master coffee, cheese, and bread, but these are small things measured against the quantity and variety of beverages and foods on offer – one could not walk three steps without coming to another food shop. Food is plentiful and cheap, drink is cheap, tea is cheap, vending machines (one is never more than a few feet from a vending machine), dispense bottles of ice cold water (or coffee, or green tea) for about 60p, which contrasted with the usual UK machine at Glasgow Airport, asking £2.50 for a tepid bottle of water, or coke, or irn bru.
The earth did not move, mount Fuji did not errupt, the water stayed in the sea, and rather disappointingly, I did not see a bear, but Japan did not disappoint.
Net week on IaDL. – back to work.
PS I bought a fortune (common at shrines and temples) and got the highly favourable “Big Luck”, however the Kanji (or rather, one of the many Kanji) for Big, is well nigh identical to that for Dog. So my random fortune was also “Luck – Dog” !!
Dalmallyfest the Asylum 